[CRAPRS] FW: Radio Problems
Jerry Pasker
info at n-connect.net
Fri Feb 6 10:25:33 CST 2009
THANK YOU! I've spent hours messing with that
radio, trying various things, and searching the
net for similar problems. Now I can recreate the
problem and know what I'm dealing with! With a
little wiggle of the cable, I can even make it
change channels on EVERY transmission!
When I ordered radio cables for my TNCs, I got
one for the Kenwood too, "just in case." And
that's what I need to do, I need to put that
cable back on the shelf as a "just in case" cable
with that radio. The Kenwood was used on a whim
one day when I realized I might be able to
actually easily receive, display,and review APRS
way points while mobile without a PC. Now that I
realize just how easy it is to have mobile APRS
for receiving and displaying way points with the
OpenTracker2 and the Garmin GPSIII, I need to
stop using the HT, and connect it to either a
dedicated 5 watt HT, or better yet, a mobile dual
bander.
OpenTracker: $50.
Garmin GPSIII+ on Ebay: $30.
Cables: $20.
HT on ebay: $30.
It's not as pretty as the ads in the ham
magazines for the Kenwood D710 ($530) with the
AvMapG5 ($629), (plus mounts and cables...
probably another $100) but $130 is one order of
magnitude less expensive than $1,259, for nearly
the same level of APRS function.
On the Solar Tetroon testing front, it's ready to
go. There will be one more freezer test, as I
compare a set of Energizer Advanced Lithium to
the prior test of Energizer Ultimate Lithium
batteries. I already have the Ultimates
purchased for the flight, but the Advanced
Lithium batteries are about half the cost, and I
want to do a comparison before my gear flies away
so I can get an exact comparison between the two
battery types.
-Jerry
>Posting from the CRAPRS mailing list:
>Ah, the joys of running the TH-F6A. I suspect the following:
>
>The remote mike button functions are wired as
>different resistances into the mike circuit.
>Like remote mike button 'A' is a 10k resistance,
>remote mike button 'B' is a 15k resistance
>across the mike circuit, etc. I don't remember
>the exact values, but you get the idea.
>
>I've found that the after market plugs don't
>quite fit into the jacks properly on the side
>of the radio. The jacks are recessed slightly,
>meaning the outer shell or cover for any
>external plug must be very thin. This
>means the plugs are almost, but not quite,
>seated into the radio jacks. When this
>happens, the slightest movement outward on the
>plugs will trigger a channel change,
>vfo mode switch, or some other strange behavior
>in the radio, even if you lock the
>functions. I think the lock only affects the
>buttons on the radio, not the external
>mike functions.
>
>
>Even if you bought the cable from the open
>tracker folks, it may still just use more
>standard sized plugs.
>
>If you made your own plug, be aware that the
>ground or return for the mike circuit is not
>the shell or shield on the (larger) mike jack;
>it's the shell on the audio output jack.
>
>I have a cable I made from external parts, with
>very narrow shells, that do seat properly
>into the jacks. I can let you borrow it.
>
>Or maybe better yet, I have a known-good
>Radio Shack HTX-202 you could use. It uses the
>more standard wiring for audio and mike:
>the larger 3.5 mm or 1/8 inch for external
>speaker, 2.5 mm or 3/16 for the mike, with
>a 10K to ground to key the thing. When powered
>by 12 volts, it's rated to 5 watts out,
>and the usually measure pretty close to that.
>BNC RF connector, standard barrel sleeve
>for input power.
>
>Everything about the Kenwood is odd, as far as connectors are concerned.
>
>
>> Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 16:35:58 -0600
>> To: craprs at rf.org
>> From: info at n-connect.net
>> Subject: [CRAPRS] Radio Problems
>>
>> Posting from the CRAPRS mailing list:
>> I've got an Opentracker2 in my truck connected to a KenwoodTHF6A, and
>> an external antenna. It's a "waste" of a tribander to use it on
>> APRS, and I've got another HT on my list of radio gear to acquire,
>> but for now, the Kenwood is all I've got.
>>
>> The problem I'm having with it is that it changes channels.
> > Completely randomly. Sometimes it's fine for weeks, and other times,
>> it changes channels after only a minute of use. It's worse when I
>> run it off it's internal battery, so I run it off 12 volt vehicle
>> power. And it's random. It will randomly change to some memory
>> channel.
>>
>> I've got some snap on chokes, for the mic and audio cable, but they
>> don't seem to have any effect. Running off the HT's antenna (crap for
>> getting packets out, but I wanted to test it) or external roof top
>> mag mount doesn't make any difference. Normal power is 5 watts.
>> I've run it on .5 watts, and .05 watts, and have seen no difference.
>> And yeah, you CAN actually get some APRS packets out on .05 watts.
>> But not many, and not far from a digi. :-)
>>
>> I've set it to one band use only, and always run it with the controls
>> locked when I use it as an APRS radio. I also run it in VFO mode,
>> since I do not have a memory setting for 144.390. So VFO, one band
>> mode, controls locked, and it still manages to change to some random
>> memory channel. Since I have a lot of channels in memory that I
>> can't transmit on, (radio works well as a scanner too) I usually land
>> on one of those channels, so it's no real harm. But one of these
>> days, I'm going to land on a repeater channel, and blast it with APRS
>> packets.
>>
>> And that day was today, when I noticed it was on 444.225. (Dubuque?)
>> I'm not sure if that is a working repeater, or not.
>>
>> And it stays locked during the channel change. I have to unlock it,
>> and change it back and relock it.
>>
>> Anyone have any ideas?
>>
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>
>
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